The Robe Of The Manchu Nationality In Qipao Culture
cheongsam
It was women's fashion in the Republic of China.
Because Manchu is called "banners", it is called "cheongsam".
From the word meaning, the cheongsam refers to the gown worn by the flag men (both men and women), but only the gowns worn by the eight banners are closely related to the cheongsam of the later generations.
In the Qing Dynasty, women's clothing was coexisted with Han and Manchu.
In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women wore gowns, while Han women still wore their skirts under their jackets. In the middle of Qing Dynasty, Han Manchu copied each other. In the late Qing Dynasty, Manchu imitated Han ethos, and even appeared the situation of "half flags changing to Han costume, and palace robes cut into short clothes".
Gowns that are popular in ethnic minority areas or nomads are generally tight and narrow, which are conducive to riding or other intense activities. This style of dress is more suitable for body wear.
Historically, the Han people have adopted this narrow style of Robe style for many times. Zhao Wuling's Hu Fu riding is a typical example.
Hu clothing in the Tang Dynasty was also popular for a while.
Hu dress
In the days of Tang Kaiyuan, Tianbao and Hu Zhuang, Hu Qi and Hu Le, they could be regarded as a popular example of foreign culture in a large area, belonging to the "imported products" of the streets in Changan.
In the Liao, Jin, yuan and Qing Dynasties and other ethnic minority regimes, the robes that fit together once played the leading role of clothing, though they all experienced or showed the process or trend of becoming broad.
In the Qing Dynasty, the robe was regarded as a typical dress because of its longest duration.
In the first year of emperor Shunzhi (AD 1644), the Qing army entered the border and joined forces with the Han warlords to complete the capital of Beijing, and then unified the whole country.
With the initial stability of the regime, we began to enforce the shaving service and set off a gigantic bloody killing. The law is strict and vital. There is a saying that "keep your head without leaving hair, leaving your hair without leaving your head", the Han people struggle with it and strive to preserve it.
Hanfu
It was suppressed by the rulers of the Qing Dynasty.
The most important question is why the Han people should be forced to shave and plait easily after the establishment of the Manchu Dynasty. According to common sense, there is little to do with what clothes to wear, what hairstyle and rule to wear, but the entry of Manchuria people and the establishment of Qing Dynasty have given them new connotations.
Han people can not accept alien rule because Han people despise barbarism and accept barbaric rule, which is insulting to the Han people.
The Han nationality has a history of civilization for thousands of years, and has a splendid culture. Compared with other ethnic groups, Han people have a strong sense of cultural superiority. In contrast, the culture of Manchuria is superficial and really ashamed.
This sense of national inferiority on the one hand prompted the Manchuria aristocrats to learn Chinese culture desperately, and on the other hand, the Manchuria nobility feared that the Han people despised them. Therefore, the best way to rule Han people is to make Han people practice different ethnic customs and insult the Han nationality by way of personality insult, so that the Han people lose self-esteem and self-confidence. In the late Qing Dynasty, the robe worn by the flag girl was more broad and wide, and the lines were straight and tough, and the clothes were long to ankle.
The "Yuanbao collar" is very common. The collar covers the ear, and the gown is embroidered with various patterns. The collar, sleeve, flap, and flats have multiple broad rolling edges.
During the period of Xianfeng and Tongzhi, when the roll reached the peak stage, some even the whole clothes were all rolled up with lace, so that it was almost impossible to identify the original material.
The decoration of the flag robe is very complicated. The Qing Dynasty is trying to save the peril. The Qing Dynasty's westernization school put forward the strategy of saving the nation by "learning from the middle school and using western learning for use", sending large numbers of overseas students to study abroad.
Chinese students first appeared in western style students' clothes and caps, and the input of foreign clothes provided another reference frame for judging beauty, which directly affected the change of social dress concept.
In the future, cheongsam evolved into a new style of Chinese and Western styles. The change of Western cheongsam is the beginning of this change.
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